Getting Luck In Kentucky Day 1

            The RRG trip started at the Rock Gym, when I was looking at photo's of a climb called Twinkie (.12a). One of the harder climbers at the gym, Ryan Lieberman recognized the climb, and asked if I was planning on going out. I told him I wanted to but had nobody to go with. So rock climbers being rock climbers, we threw together a last minute trek from VBRG to Slade Kentucky. At a distance of 580 miles, this was the farthest I have ever driven for a climbing trip. Little did I know that it was not going to be a cragging trip, instead, this place was a climbing mecca. Some of the best rock east of the Mississippi. Also being with such hard climbers, we all fueled each others motivation to climb hard. I don't think there was a single day that we didn't get on a 5.12. So here are the routes that we got on:

RRG

 •Put Me In The Zoo---5.9+                                               Sunshine---5.9

•Hippocrite---5.12a                                                             Put Me In The Zoo---5.9+

  •Scar Tissue---5.12a                                                         Trigger Happy---5.10a

•Edgehog---5.10d                                                               Make A Wish---5.10b

•Make A Wish---5.10b                                                       Good Gravy---5.10b

•Easy Rider---5.13a                                                            Edgehog---5.10d

•MILF Money---5.13b                                                        The Dude Abides---5.11a

•Eyeball Chaw 5.12a                                                          Forearm Follies---5.11d

•The Dude Abides---5.11a                                                 Raindancer---5.10a

•Raindancer---5.10a                                                          Scar Tissue---5.12a

•Good Grave---5.10b                                                         Hippocrite---5.12a

•Sunshine---5.9                                                                   Nicorrete---5.12a

•Tissue Tiger---5.12b                                                          Eyeball Chaw---5.12a

•Forearm Follies---5.11d                                                     All The Way Baby---5.12b

•Nicorrete---5.12a                                                               Easy Rider---5.13a

NRG                                                                                    Apollo Reed---5.13a

•Trigger Happy---5.10a                                                      MILF Money---5.13b 

•Apollo Reed---5.13a

•All The Way Baby---5.12b

                We left Virginia Beach and immediatly hit traffic at around 3:30pm. It was a beautiful sunny day. Once we got past the Hampton Roads and the traffic cleared up. About an hour and a half later, a wall of black cloud was looming over Richmond, VA. Stephens and Ryan's phones came alive with warnings of flooding and a tornado. Soon the rain was falling so hard that I couldn't see 15 feet infront of the car. I just kept going, and although the emergency alerts told us to seek shelter, we preessed on through Richmond. The sky cleared up as quickly as it began, and there was evidence of storm damage. 

Thunder Heads in Richmond, VA

More Thunder Heads

After stopping for some chalk at REI, we headed out on I-64W towards the hills which I have missed so much. After that not a whole lot happened, the wheels turned, the miles crept by, and before I knew it we crossed the border from Virginia to Kentucky.

No, no it's cool, only 461 miles to go!

By 3am we arrived and were pleasantly suprised to see only a handful of tents at Miguel's Pizzeria. Stephens and Ryan set up there tent, while I got my bed in the Mini-Van ready. Unfortunatley, I forgot that this was Kentucky, land of the bugs. Here I am relaxing in the sleeping bag, when I look up and see the ceiling of the van covered with bugs (they were gone the next day)! All in all I drove around 11.5 hours.

The next morning I was woken up promptly a 6:30am by a sleepy looking Ryan. I felt like crap on only 3ish hours of sleep, but hey, when it's time to get up, it's time to get up. Apparently Miguel's isn't 24/7 anymore either, they open at 7am, so I could have slept in! Once we were sufficiently filled with French Toast, we headed south to "The Zoo". We parked at the side, packed up and headed up to the crag.

First morning at Miguels, a little foggy.

Parking Lot For the Zoo

To get to the crag, you have to cross this log, then head up a 3rd class hill.

So my first outdoor rope climb on the East Coast was a fantastic slab climb called "Put Me In The Zoo" (5.9+). The start was the hardest part, with a few crimps, but after that it became a masterful mantle-piece. Once we got warmed up, we headed over to Hippocrite (5.12a), a climb we had all looked at and decided it looked like something we could on-sight. But before we could even reach Hippocrite, Stephens had his attention piqued by the severely overhanging, jug haul, called "Scar Tissue". He went for the on-sight, but pumped out on the difficult finish. All in all not to bad for a few boulderers (we need to work endurance!).

Scar Tissue 5.12a

Stephens Nunnally on Scar Tissue and Ryan Lieberman on belay.

After Stephens put up the draws, I hopped on going for my on-sight attempt, hoping I could make it further. The climb is only 3 stars, but it needs to be more. Super huge jugs (dirty start), and the amazing thing about the route is that you don't notice the pump...until you hit something that's not a jug! Caught by suprise of the pump, I fell at the last bolt going up to the anchors.

Stephens after being lowered from Scar Tissue 5.12a (the pump is real).

Ryan decided to save his energy for his on-sight attempt of hippocrite, so we left the draws hanging on Scar Tissue so that we could come back to it. Ryan headed up Hippocrite, and fell at the third bolt right at the under-clings. However he did make the hero crux-clip which was really freaky! We all tried Hippocrite over and over again, until eventually we were to wrecked to continue.

Ryan Lieberman after a fall at the crux of Hippocrite 5.12a

Stephens Nunnally clipping the 3rd bolt of Hippocrite 5.12a

Stephens falling off the crux of Scar Tissue 5.12a

After this Stephens cleaned the route and we went to go find a moderate climb to cool down on. We eventually found a "cool down" called "Edgehog"(5.10d). Slabby Micro-crimps (did I mention MICRO!) to a dirty 5.9 run-out. Stephens and Ryan lead this, but I decided on the TR.

Slabby BS is not what I came here for!

After that we drove back to camp to eat pizza, slackline, and play the loooooonnngest game of chess.

Stephens and Ryan (The Bickering Couple)

I think we can safely say that Ryan has lost.

Enjoying "A Late One"

Stephens slacklining

Ryan...well...he's trying right?

Climbing Life Hacks and Workouts!

         This all started off as a joke one day while climbing at Stoneworks. I was talking with Tristan and Jordan about things that they do to stay in shape. Both of them are great climbers, but a little bit different when it comes to climbing. Jordan is more like me, where he put's in a lot of time and effort into training at the gym. Tristan on the other hand only does a few exercises every now and again. Or so I thought! I asked him how he kept in such amazing shape without even trying! So he told me all of his little secrets, and now I'm telling the whole world!!

         First however I'm going to tell you that all of this was just us messing around trying to find things to do instead of working out! Yes, yes, we're lazy climbers, but we need ways to stay in shape and have fun right??? So here are a few ways to stay in shape and have fun while doing it!!!!!!

#1 THE TRICKY TRISTAN PLANK

Step one: find yourself a good place to do a plank!!

Step two: get your smartphone!!

Step three: Open your favorite game on said smartphone!! (The Tricky Tristan is best done with FLAPPY BIRD OR CYTUS)

Step four: Play your game in plank position until your arms, or abs give out!!!!

The Tricky Tristan modeled perfectly by Jordan Campbell

#2 THE CLEANSING CRUNCH

The Cleansing Crunch is an excellent way to stay fit with a time restricting schedule. Now the cleansing crunch can be hard to do, mostly because it happens in the morning when you wake up, and right before you go to bed. But it's three minutes of Ab burning pleasure!!!

                Materials:

                  •Toothbrush

                  •Toothpaste

                  •A clear head/determination to do this in the morning.

                  •Stopwatch/timer

Step One: Set your timer for three minutes. ( or more if you're an awesome morning person!!)

Step Two: Set up your toothbrush for maximum brush-ability!!!

Step Three: Get in crunch position!!!

Step Four: Do as many crunches in three minutes WHILE brushing your teeth! (Flex your abs at the top of each crunch for added pump)

BEWARE: Tristan also came up with this one, so blame him if you choke on your toothpaste!! Also he's crazy so maybe he like's it??

Cleansing that crunch!

#3 THE TWO FOR TWO

The Two For Two is an odd one, and you need a pull up bar or a hangboard. The TFT can work in any room in the house, but for the name to work, it should be in the bathroom (but like a said it works in any room). Basically, mount your pull-up bar or hang board in a room. Then every time you enter the room you do 2 pull-ups, or lock of for any amount of time. Also do it when you leave the room. This is a great one and takes very little time (and if you move around a lot in your house/apartment/room/van/tent/box) and you'll do a ton of pull-ups!

TFT all up in my room!

#4 CROUCHING DOG-BONE, HIDDEN CLIPPY-THING

This one is not for fitness, but it is one of the more important things. Every time I climb, I notice the people clip very, very, very slowly. Now this is fine if you're just starting to climb. But if you're looking to red-point on a new level, the difference of a few seconds can change the whole climb. This often overlooked skill is amazing and will help you climb more efficiently, and better. So first you must learn your clips!!

#1 Middle Finger Clip

#2 Pinch Clip

#3 The Hamfist

I don't like to hamfist, but I do know some people who swear by it! For me I've just never needed to do it!!!!

       Ok so now you know how to clip, go hang a quickdraw somewhere in your house that you spend a lot of time in (bedroom, living room, bathroom??? etc.) And everyday clip it 50 times. Or as many as you have time to do. Don't forget to switch-up your clips, alternating the kind of clip, and which hand you use. If you notice you're bad at one of them , focus on that one and become a god at clipping. Soon you'll be on your way to sending 5.15b and leaving Ondra to fumble with his quickdraws'.

THE SERIOUS WORKOUT

      Now this is the point in the blog where I turn to serious training methods that I do in the gym to (try) to get better. It's a bunch of different workouts compiled from a bunch of different climbers. For me I always train Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. So here is what my workout looks like:

Monday

Warm up: Jumping Jacks, and LIGHT stretching. Then I traverse on the wall for about 10 minutes. (Stoneworks has a great traverse with over 200 moves, so I always get on that to stay consistent, and always do it with features for feet). I'm always focusing on keeping my breathing consistent, and focusing on keeping absolutely quite feet.

Free-Session: After traversing I stretch out and let my arms rest. Everyday I climb I make room in my workout schedule to have fun and climb projects/new route's. Without this I would be completely miserable because I HATE working out!!! So remember always have fun, and nothing should get in the way of that, even working out.

Workout A: On Monday, the workout is all about endurance, so I head over to the auto-belay and get on the 3rd hardest route. I normally do this anywhere from 5 times to 8 times, and try to build a good pump going. Normally this means repeatedly doing 5.11 moves without getting off (I like to choose a route that I can do, but is not easy for me). Normally towards the last few laps I start to fall on the crux, once this starts to happen, I get on the next easiest route, usually down to consistent 5.10 moves, again as I start to fail on this, I move down to the next easiest, now 5.9. This is where I normally end this segment because the pump is strong. Unclip from the Auto-belay (if you can hahaha!) and go to an area with enough room to do an ab workout (preferably with a hangboard nearby or a pull-up bar). Go immediately from auto-belay and do 10 pull-ups on the jug holds on a hangboard, on the last one hold a full lock-off for as long as possible and slowly lower down. 

Workout B: After the pull-ups, I do 50 crunches at a medium pace, then roll immediately into a plank  for 45 seconds. After that I do 40 side crunches, 20 on the left, and 20 on the right. Then 50 more crunches, followed immediately by a 6 inch leg lift for 30 seconds. I now have 8 minutes of rest time, to talk with people, stretch, and most importantly drink water. Focus on trying to get maximum rest by stretching and  de-pumping your arms.

Workout C: After my rest, I hook back up to the auto-belay. This time I start on the easiest route, but instead of max laps, I focus on footwork. On every hold, do a lock-off and hold for 5 seconds, and do this for every hold. If you lock-off your left arm, reach as high as possible with your right hand. Don't put your right hand on the next hold, just hover. And keep doing that up the wall. When you've completed the easiest route, move to the next hardest one and do the same thing. Do this until you can't hold your lock-off. Unclip from the Auto-belay and go back to your area to do an ab workout and pull-ups. Go immediately from auto-belay and do 10 pull-ups on the jug holds on a hangboard, on the last one hold a full lock-off for as long as possible and slowly lower down. 

Workout B: After the pull-ups, I do 50 crunches at a medium pace, then roll immediately into a plank  for 45 seconds. After that I do 40 side crunches, 20 on the left, and 20 on the right. Then 50 more crunches, followed immediately by a 6 inch leg lift for 30 seconds. I now have 8 minutes of rest time, to talk with people, stretch, and most importantly drink water. Focus on trying to get maximum rest by stretching and  de-pumping your arms.

After this my workout is done. I normally don't go home, I just hang out with friends in the gym and lightly climb. When I get home I like to massage my arms and eat a heft man meal.

Wednesday

Warm up: Jumping Jacks, and LIGHT stretching. Then I traverse on the wall for about 10 minutes. (Stoneworks has a great traverse with over 200 moves, so I always get on that to stay consistent, and always do it with features for feet). I'm always focusing on keeping my breathing consistent, and focusing on keeping absolutely quite feet.

Free-Session: After traversing I stretch out and let my arms rest. Everyday I climb I make room in my workout schedule to have fun and climb projects/new route's.

Workout A: On Wednesdays, I like to focus on bouldering/power-endurance. The workout is a simple 5X5. I find 5 routes that I can do, but are difficult for me. I like to choose route's that will help me with outdoor climbing (recently it's been overhanging but decent hold for New River Gorge style climbing). So the 5X5 looks like this, you do your first climb 5 time's, never stopping, try not to do a top-out or if it is a top-out, jump off. Then immediately move to the second climb, again same concept, never stop moving for all route's. So basically you're climbing 25 moderate climbs. For me I stick to V4-V5.  This builds an amazing pump, and try not to do laps on anything with tweaky moves, and always keep a good rhythm and good footwork.

Workout B: Take a 2 minute break and head over to the hangboard station. I do a simple hangboard workout with 15lbs. I pick 6 holds that I'm not great at, and do a 7 second hang, 3 second rest. And do that 7 times for one hold. Rest for 1 minute, then repeat the same thing on the next hold. I like to focus on crimps, slopers, and pockets, as these are the holds that I always need work on. Remember basic hangboard safety such as slightly bend elbows, and an open hand grip. 

Workout C: After the hangboard I do 50 crunches at a medium pace, then roll immediately into a plank  for 45 seconds. After that I do 40 side crunches, 20 on the left, and 20 on the right. Then 50 more crunches, followed immediately by a 6 inch leg lift for 30 seconds. I now have 8 minutes of rest time, to talk with people, stretch, and most importantly drink water. Focus on trying to get maximum rest by stretching and  de-pumping your arms.

Workout A: Again go back and do 5X5. I like to choose new routes then the set from before. Remember to never stop moving for all route's. So you're climbing 25 moderate climbs. For me I stick to V4-V5.  This builds an amazing pump, and try not to do laps on anything with tweaky moves, and always keep a good rhythm and good footwork.

Workout D: This last simple one is a good way to get one arm lock strength on vertical routes. Start in pull up position on rings or free hanging holds. Pull up with both hands slowly and rotate into a one arm lock-off. I like to have another hold for my other hand to go to but is not necessary. I don't like to drop back down into pull up position because it feels like a great way to wreck your elbows so drop back down and repeat with other arm. You're just working on your ability move throughout a lock-off. Do 5-8 on each side.

Step one of the lock-off

Step two of lock off  ( try to do as statically as possible)

Lock-off from the other side (you can do chin-up lock-off, or pull-up lock-off, like the one Jordan is doing in the photo).

Now the workout is done for the day and I once again become a lazy dormant climber, scamper around, eat some food, and dig up some nuts, maybe a cam or two?

Found a Cam…what an odd creature.

Friday

Friday I will always hold dear to my heart. The end of a hard week is always a good time to enjoy yourself.

Warm up: Jumping Jacks, and LIGHT stretching. Then I traverse on the wall for about 10 minutes. (Stoneworks has a great traverse with over 200 moves, so I always get on that to stay consistent, and always do it with features for feet). I'm always focusing on keeping my breathing consistent, and focusing on keeping absolutely quite feet.

Workout A: This is the best workout of all. No workout. That's right. Go to a new gym, climb projects, do whatever you want. If you're going climbing for the weekend, take the day of, just remember…cycle start again on Monday….dreaded Monday. Have a great weekend!

Smith Rock Being WARM!!!?

Well it has indeed been a while, and I have much to catch up on!! Took another trip out to Smith Rock for 5 days, which turned out to be pure joy. The temperature was Mid-60's, the whole time except for Monday, which turned into freezing fog! But the ticklist was pretty great.


Smith Rock Ticklist:
1) 9 Gallon Buckets 5.10c
2) Cry Babies 5.9
3) Power Dive 5.12a R
4) Captain Xenolith 5.10a
5) Brogan Spire 5.5 X
6) Jacob-Strain Line 5.12c
7) Barred Reality 5.10b/c
8) Short Sharp Shock 5.10b??

The trip started in a great way! We had a luxury mom-rocket (minivan) and instead of leaving at night, we left early Thursday morning. The drive was fast and we got to the wall at 10pm. By that time the sun had already warmed the rocks. 9 Gallon Buckets was open so that's what we hit for our warm-up. The climb was fun, probably 5.9 the whole way with on crux right after the second anchors. I wouldn't really call it a .10c, but it was definitely enjoyable. After we got off 9GB, Stan and I went to Cry Babies, a really cool, 2 pitch climb to the right of Karate Wall! That's when Stan pointed out the climb of the day. A long climb called Power Dive. Now I'm not one to climb in the main area, but this climb was amazingly fun! It goes up Karate Crack, which got at 5.10c, then from the top of the flake you traverse up and left through big jugs. After that it was a sustained .11 and decent holds, but VERY pumpy!! The goal of the day was to have a nice and easy day so that I could save my tips for the next few days to come! But alas Stan had other plans…and there go my tips!

Driving out of Black Butte!

The Karate Wall!!!

After that, the day was more or less over. Unfortunately it is winter time, and the days are short. We headed out to Black Butte for the night and rested our aching limbs in the hot-tub. This was my first time at Black Butte, and my first time spending the night in a house while being at Smith. I feel like I'm almost cheating, but at the same time it's oh so wonderful!!! 

Brem doing homework in Black Butte!

The next day we met up with John and Mike and decided to head out to the Marsupials. It was then that we decided to race to the summit of the Possum. Mike and John would take the 5.4 up, and Brem and me took Barred Reality up. This turned out to be terrifying and fun all at the same time. We did also eventually win. Sometimes skipping one or two bolts saves time ;). 

After that we met up with Remy, Tamara, a few Ryans, Kae, and a badass dog named Crash. I put up a 5.10c that was really one 5.11a move, followed by a 5.8 slab climb. This climb brought us up to the base of the Brogan Spire. Remy and Ian wanted to head to the top so I finished it up. Unfortunately there is no place for gear and there is a bit of exposure. All in all another good day that was pretty relaxing!

Smith Rock from the summit of Brogan Spire

Ian on the summit

The majestic Marsupials!

Remy and I on top of Brogan Spire!

We hiked out of the Marsupials at dark and had an interesting time getting Crash down the slot. But he was a champ about it and got down in one piece. We check out the aqueduct on the way out and got into some unreasonable business. Brem, Mike, and John had headed out early to go to Black Butte, but I stayed behind for some traditional Smith Rock camping at the designated dirtbag camping spot. It was a grab night filled with delicious food and great company.

An awesome shot by Ryan Gahris as we all enter the aqueduct tunnel!

Another great shot by Ryan Gahris: This is of the dirtbag camping spot, that you can set a TR on!!

At the Fire Rock!

Sunday rolls around, and talk of where we're going is tossed back and forth. Back to the Marsupials for some new 5.12's bolted by Alan?? Main area to hang with the Battalion of warm weather seekers?? Turns out we made the hike back out to the Marsupials…the only difference is that today I only got on one climb…called Jacob-Strain Line. Some .12c that was really nasty, and actually not worth climbing for the pure simple face that you're essentially climbing glue. After being disheartened by a very nasty climb, I decided I would become a belay slave for the rest of the day. I've had better day's out on the wall, but no matter what I'm spending my time in a beautiful place with great friends. 

Monday we woke up and it was cold and foggy! So we decided to head out and leave it at that!! I think that in the end, we don't go out to climb…hell half the time I don't even climb, I think we all go out there for the sense of community. That's what makes it fun ,the people you meet and surround yourself with. Keep climbing, and stay happy. The summer will come soon enough.

PS: To anybody reading this, I apologize for the boring read, I just had all 4 wisdom teeth removed yesterday, and my drug addled mind is not really in the most creative state. Also I apologize for the photo's, somebody at Smith Rock decided that they saw a nice Nikon D5100, and claimed it as their own. So no more super high quality photo's for a while. But hey, as long as they get some great shots out of it, all is well.

Group jump shot!

Smith Rock putting on a show!!

Best Climbs at Smith Rock (over 5.11)

So I thought since I did a post about my favorite, less seen, easy climbs in the untouched areas of Smith, that I would do one about the harder (over 5.11) routes of Smith. Sure everybody knows about the awesome Heinous  Cling, but who hasn't gotten on that?! So here are some of my favorite, more unlikely climbs that will test you in new ways.

First up is the amazing 5.11d called Blackened. There have been many skepticisms about the grading because there are multiple ways to do it. I've talked to multiple people who say that one way id the true .11d and the other is not, and vice versa. But I think both ways of doing it is 5.11d. So get up there and do what feels right. Here's my take on it. Climb up easy terrain past the first three bolts, at this point there is a ledge big enough to sit on and relax. You can clip your fourth bolt while sitting, and once you stand up you can reach your next bolt. Lieback on the sharp crack, and get a high left foot. Once you've cleared the first moves in the crack it eases up. Follow the bolts up through decent pockets. The crux come from right hand in a good pocket and left in a bad sloper. The crux comes right between the last two bolts.

Making my way to ledge at the 3rd bolt

Lying back on the crack into easier ground

Almost at the anchors of Blackened

The next one is a classic, and unfortunately many, many people have climbed it. But is no less a classic and a must do. The route I'm talking about is Toxic. This 5.11b is worth the hike into Aggro Gully, even if it's the only thing you'll be getting on. Despite all the people that have climber it, the texture of the rock hasn't suffered. Toxic has a great position, and fun moves, large moves between big buckets. The crux of the route is getting to the large basketball sized hole in the wall, the original beta was to dyne for it, but now people do it static with a heel hook. After the crux there isn't much that is very interesting, buck it can pump you out by the end of the route. Definitely a must do if you haven't already done it!

Me in the big hole in the wall

Tristan Sommers doing the static beta and pulling through the crux

This next climb is one of my all time favorite climbs. Definitely top 5. The route is located in the Northern Point, and is unlike anything in all of Smith Rock. You won't find many crimps on the route. There isn't a single knob. Like the Lower Gorge, Northern Point is made of Basalt Rimrock, which normally makes for some slopey and technical climbs. But this route, you'll need more brawn that brains. The route is called Torrid Zone, and goes at 5.12a. It goes through some amazingly huge holds, with just about nothing for feet. The crux comes at the fourth bolt with a bad sloper to hang off of with no feet. Scrunch up tight and pull out of the roof. The great thing about Northern Point is that you can set top ropes, but for Torrid Zone, the crux is not all about making the moves, but instead the crux is making the clip off of the sloper. All in all a great climb that I recommend especially in the summer because it's always in the shade.

Me right before the crux of Torrid, smiling about the pleasant jugs!

About to clip the crux bolt

Getting to the sloper

The next climb is a big hike away. That's right it's a fun Marsupial climb. Mike Brem and I stumbled upon this gem while coming down off of Broghan Spire. We rappelled down and saw this amazing line. It looked like a fun overhanging jug haul. Maybe a 5.10c. But then we got on it and found it to be a little more difficult than that. Allow me to introduce you to Pouches, 5.11c. This climb is great if you're in the are and want a medium sport route. When we got on it, there was loose rock around the 6th bolt, but apparently now it has become more solid. And possibly harder??

Brem rappelling down Pouches 5.11c

The last one I want to bring up is a project of mine. It's my exact opposite style, which makes me want to do it that much more. It's a crimpy tech-fest in the Monument. The route is called Water Groove 5.12b. The true beta is to go up the middle of the groove, but I stay way left. There are 2 or 3 good jugs, I had to clean up of them because I kept dropping big rocks, but now it's pretty solid. My beta involves a dyne, followed by a leftward traverse into the groove. Follow up technical stemming to a double gaston crux! Really funky movement but really fun!!!

About to enter the crux

The crux!!!