Last weekend (Wednesday-Thursday) I had one of the most amazing climbing outings of my life. On Monday night I was at work drying up from not getting to climb enough outside. I told Grace this. So she said, "Ok, let's go climb this weekend". And so a trip was born. We invited other people, but the inclement weather forced people to bail. But I was determined to go climbing. So on Tuesday night Grace drove down from Northern Virginia to meet up with me. I got off of work at 10pm and met up with her at CNU. From there we started the drive out west. We swung shifts of driving, but even still ended up passing out at a rest stop about 70 miles outside of Fayetteville.
After a collective 2 hours of sleep, I was anxious to get climbing. We arrived at the Endless Wall at around 8am. The sky was gray, and threatened to open up, but the temperature was perfect. We hiked down to the Cirque, and I nervously paced infront of Trebuchet. This will probably be my long term project, and I've been psyching myself up for this climb. For now I'm just trying to focus on the 5.13c lower section of the climb. Mostly it's a lot of committing lunges to decent holds. At the 5th bolt there is a deadpoint to a jug. Apparently it's possible to do it without cutting feet, but for whatever reason I couldn't do it without cutting feet.
Me monkeying around on Trebuchet (5.13c)
After a couple hours of projecting, we moved out, and headed to the Upper Meadow. At the meadow we got on Infatuation (5.7), Berecik (5.8), and Pedelante (5.9). Pedelante seemed a bit hard to me, awkward moves, but definitely fun. If anybody get's on Berecik, BEWARE!! There is an angry Black Jacket hanging out on this climb. Just the week before it stung our friend Tate in the face! After climbing these moderates, I got on Eye of Mordor (5.13a). I sent this rig in January when it was 26 degrees outside. This time around the weather was good. I didn't pull the crux, just having some fun on it! I lowered down from the route and we made a fun rope swing off the route. After climbing we headed to the Summersville Campground, which is free!! That was the only reason we went there! Grace went straight to bed, and I hung out with some rowdy West Virginians! Eventually they did get to rowdy, so I headed too bed, and made a point of locking Olga up.
Hiking into Upper Meadow
Smelling the Roses
The Mordor Swing
Tired after the Eye of Mordor (5.13a)
Hitchin?
The next day we woke up to stunningly clear blue skies. Since it didn't look like rain was going to happen, we headed out to Summersville Lake to climb. The original plan was to head to Orange Oswald and climb the moderates there, but we ended up stopping at Under the Milky-Way (5.11d), and the 5.9's around the corner. The 5.9's were fun, a little bit tough. Under the Milky-Way was an absolutely stunning climb, with very intriguing moves on an arete.
After the second bolt, the sun is out to destroy your sight (Under the Milky-Way 5.11d)
Under the Milky Way (5.11d)
While I was lowering off Under the Milky-Way, we had a conversation with another group of climbers. They said that they had just gotten off of Narcissis (5.12a). Internally I scoffed because most people are out to get on that climb specifically. They tell me I should try the Direct start which comes in at 5.12d. Somehow in my mind I got convinced into it. But first we had to go get on Hippy Dreams (5.7). I had never been on this climb and it's a classic, so why not? We climbed Hippy Dreams in the setting sun, enjoying the views of the lake, and the pleasure of each others company. Taking in the fact that nobody else would get to see such an amazing sunset on the beautiful day. After climbing Hippy Dreams we casually walked back to Narcissus Cave, and started setting up. By the time we got set up it was dark. With headlamp on, I tried to do the start boulder problem. I couldn't quite pull it, be it from physical fatigue, mental fatigue, or just plainly not strong enough. I'm not sure, but it looks like one tough move off the ground, followed by easier climbing. After throwing in the towel on the direct start, I headed up the normal climb. I had an odd connection with this route, and not a pleasant one. This is the route that all of the rock jocks come to redpoint. So I to really wanted to get this route. About half-way up I started getting tired, thrusting from jug to jug, trying so hard because I wanted this climb. Just as I was about to fall, something clicked inside my mind. Let it go. I don't need this climb, why can't I just let go of my ego, and enjoy the pure and simple fun of climbing. As soon as I realized how much fun I was having, I continued climbing up, just savoring the amazing climbing. I got to a bad bat-hang/ high heel rest, and looked down at the ground. I couldn't see anything except for the rock that my headlamp illuminated. Everything else was left behind. I pulled the crux, clipped the chains, and let out a yell of pure joy. Life was suddenly clear, and I knew that I didn't want to leave.
Narcissus Cave, about to go get on Hippie Dreams
We hiked out, dreaming of pizza. But by the time we got to Pies and Pints they had been closed for an hour. Instead we made Mountain House lasagna in the gas station parking lot. We began the long drive home, and acted like goof balls on the way.
Safety first kids.
How I feel after climbing Hippy Dreams
Next week we'll be spending 5 days at the Red! Happy Climbing!
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