Smith Rock Ticklist:
1) 9 Gallon Buckets 5.10c
2) Cry Babies 5.9
3) Power Dive 5.12a R
4) Captain Xenolith 5.10a
5) Brogan Spire 5.5 X
6) Jacob-Strain Line 5.12c
7) Barred Reality 5.10b/c
8) Short Sharp Shock 5.10b??
The trip started in a great way! We had a luxury mom-rocket (minivan) and instead of leaving at night, we left early Thursday morning. The drive was fast and we got to the wall at 10pm. By that time the sun had already warmed the rocks. 9 Gallon Buckets was open so that's what we hit for our warm-up. The climb was fun, probably 5.9 the whole way with on crux right after the second anchors. I wouldn't really call it a .10c, but it was definitely enjoyable. After we got off 9GB, Stan and I went to Cry Babies, a really cool, 2 pitch climb to the right of Karate Wall! That's when Stan pointed out the climb of the day. A long climb called Power Dive. Now I'm not one to climb in the main area, but this climb was amazingly fun! It goes up Karate Crack, which got at 5.10c, then from the top of the flake you traverse up and left through big jugs. After that it was a sustained .11 and decent holds, but VERY pumpy!! The goal of the day was to have a nice and easy day so that I could save my tips for the next few days to come! But alas Stan had other plans…and there go my tips!
Driving out of Black Butte!
The Karate Wall!!!
After that, the day was more or less over. Unfortunately it is winter time, and the days are short. We headed out to Black Butte for the night and rested our aching limbs in the hot-tub. This was my first time at Black Butte, and my first time spending the night in a house while being at Smith. I feel like I'm almost cheating, but at the same time it's oh so wonderful!!!
Brem doing homework in Black Butte!
The next day we met up with John and Mike and decided to head out to the Marsupials. It was then that we decided to race to the summit of the Possum. Mike and John would take the 5.4 up, and Brem and me took Barred Reality up. This turned out to be terrifying and fun all at the same time. We did also eventually win. Sometimes skipping one or two bolts saves time ;).
After that we met up with Remy, Tamara, a few Ryans, Kae, and a badass dog named Crash. I put up a 5.10c that was really one 5.11a move, followed by a 5.8 slab climb. This climb brought us up to the base of the Brogan Spire. Remy and Ian wanted to head to the top so I finished it up. Unfortunately there is no place for gear and there is a bit of exposure. All in all another good day that was pretty relaxing!
Smith Rock from the summit of Brogan Spire
Ian on the summit
The majestic Marsupials!
Remy and I on top of Brogan Spire!
We hiked out of the Marsupials at dark and had an interesting time getting Crash down the slot. But he was a champ about it and got down in one piece. We check out the aqueduct on the way out and got into some unreasonable business. Brem, Mike, and John had headed out early to go to Black Butte, but I stayed behind for some traditional Smith Rock camping at the designated dirtbag camping spot. It was a grab night filled with delicious food and great company.
An awesome shot by Ryan Gahris as we all enter the aqueduct tunnel!
Another great shot by Ryan Gahris: This is of the dirtbag camping spot, that you can set a TR on!!
At the Fire Rock!
Sunday rolls around, and talk of where we're going is tossed back and forth. Back to the Marsupials for some new 5.12's bolted by Alan?? Main area to hang with the Battalion of warm weather seekers?? Turns out we made the hike back out to the Marsupials…the only difference is that today I only got on one climb…called Jacob-Strain Line. Some .12c that was really nasty, and actually not worth climbing for the pure simple face that you're essentially climbing glue. After being disheartened by a very nasty climb, I decided I would become a belay slave for the rest of the day. I've had better day's out on the wall, but no matter what I'm spending my time in a beautiful place with great friends.
Monday we woke up and it was cold and foggy! So we decided to head out and leave it at that!! I think that in the end, we don't go out to climb…hell half the time I don't even climb, I think we all go out there for the sense of community. That's what makes it fun ,the people you meet and surround yourself with. Keep climbing, and stay happy. The summer will come soon enough.
PS: To anybody reading this, I apologize for the boring read, I just had all 4 wisdom teeth removed yesterday, and my drug addled mind is not really in the most creative state. Also I apologize for the photo's, somebody at Smith Rock decided that they saw a nice Nikon D5100, and claimed it as their own. So no more super high quality photo's for a while. But hey, as long as they get some great shots out of it, all is well.
Group jump shot!
Smith Rock putting on a show!!
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