So I thought since I did a post about my favorite, less seen, easy climbs in the untouched areas of Smith, that I would do one about the harder (over 5.11) routes of Smith. Sure everybody knows about the awesome Heinous Cling, but who hasn't gotten on that?! So here are some of my favorite, more unlikely climbs that will test you in new ways.
First up is the amazing 5.11d called Blackened. There have been many skepticisms about the grading because there are multiple ways to do it. I've talked to multiple people who say that one way id the true .11d and the other is not, and vice versa. But I think both ways of doing it is 5.11d. So get up there and do what feels right. Here's my take on it. Climb up easy terrain past the first three bolts, at this point there is a ledge big enough to sit on and relax. You can clip your fourth bolt while sitting, and once you stand up you can reach your next bolt. Lieback on the sharp crack, and get a high left foot. Once you've cleared the first moves in the crack it eases up. Follow the bolts up through decent pockets. The crux come from right hand in a good pocket and left in a bad sloper. The crux comes right between the last two bolts.
Making my way to ledge at the 3rd bolt
Lying back on the crack into easier ground
Almost at the anchors of Blackened
The next one is a classic, and unfortunately many, many people have climbed it. But is no less a classic and a must do. The route I'm talking about is Toxic. This 5.11b is worth the hike into Aggro Gully, even if it's the only thing you'll be getting on. Despite all the people that have climber it, the texture of the rock hasn't suffered. Toxic has a great position, and fun moves, large moves between big buckets. The crux of the route is getting to the large basketball sized hole in the wall, the original beta was to dyne for it, but now people do it static with a heel hook. After the crux there isn't much that is very interesting, buck it can pump you out by the end of the route. Definitely a must do if you haven't already done it!
Me in the big hole in the wall
Tristan Sommers doing the static beta and pulling through the crux
This next climb is one of my all time favorite climbs. Definitely top 5. The route is located in the Northern Point, and is unlike anything in all of Smith Rock. You won't find many crimps on the route. There isn't a single knob. Like the Lower Gorge, Northern Point is made of Basalt Rimrock, which normally makes for some slopey and technical climbs. But this route, you'll need more brawn that brains. The route is called Torrid Zone, and goes at 5.12a. It goes through some amazingly huge holds, with just about nothing for feet. The crux comes at the fourth bolt with a bad sloper to hang off of with no feet. Scrunch up tight and pull out of the roof. The great thing about Northern Point is that you can set top ropes, but for Torrid Zone, the crux is not all about making the moves, but instead the crux is making the clip off of the sloper. All in all a great climb that I recommend especially in the summer because it's always in the shade.
Me right before the crux of Torrid, smiling about the pleasant jugs!
About to clip the crux bolt
Getting to the sloper
The next climb is a big hike away. That's right it's a fun Marsupial climb. Mike Brem and I stumbled upon this gem while coming down off of Broghan Spire. We rappelled down and saw this amazing line. It looked like a fun overhanging jug haul. Maybe a 5.10c. But then we got on it and found it to be a little more difficult than that. Allow me to introduce you to Pouches, 5.11c. This climb is great if you're in the are and want a medium sport route. When we got on it, there was loose rock around the 6th bolt, but apparently now it has become more solid. And possibly harder??
Brem rappelling down Pouches 5.11c
The last one I want to bring up is a project of mine. It's my exact opposite style, which makes me want to do it that much more. It's a crimpy tech-fest in the Monument. The route is called Water Groove 5.12b. The true beta is to go up the middle of the groove, but I stay way left. There are 2 or 3 good jugs, I had to clean up of them because I kept dropping big rocks, but now it's pretty solid. My beta involves a dyne, followed by a leftward traverse into the groove. Follow up technical stemming to a double gaston crux! Really funky movement but really fun!!!
About to enter the crux
The crux!!!
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