Getting Pumpy in Kentuncky? Day 3

Again the day started clouds and wet. The southern heat has spoiled me to the cold. Anything under 60º and I get goosebumps. In Oregon, if it gets over 60º you break out the bro-tanks. Yadayada eating Miguels, food, nutella, water. We decided that today we would go RRG North. Ryan and Stephens recommended Military Wall, as far as I was concerned, I was just along for the ride. The drive was scenic and we got to drive through a long one lane tunnel. Very sketch with lots of traffic. Basically to make it through, you have to screw someone over. We parked and hiked up to the crag. The first climb was a non-descript 5.9 called Sunshine. Not a lot I can say about it other than that it was a 5.9. After our warm-up,  we went straight to Tissue Tiger 5.12b. Beautiful rock, and stellar moves. It looks like a classic jug haul, but it's not. The holds are good, but just slightly sloping on overganging terrain.

Stephens on Tissue Tiger 5.12b

Stephens at the top of Tissue Tiger 5.12b

After Tissue Tiger, we were told about a jug haul 5.12b around the corner called Forearm Follies. We investigated and were intrigued. I put up the draws on this one. The start boulder problem was hard only because everything was chalked, but not everything was good. So many pockets I had to choose which ones to hit. After the boulder problem at the base, it's just jug after jug. There's even a whole handle up there. I got to the first anchor (5.11d) and called it good. The 5.12b part had bees all over it. But the true reason I didn't go was because I was pumped beyond all belief. The best part is coming down because the climb is tall and overhung. 

My feet at the top of Forearm Follies 5.12b (1st anchor 5.11d)

Flowers at the top of Forearm Follies.

After this I was burnt, but Stephens wanted to get on one more 5.12a called Niccorette. He was the only one to climb it. So...it's an arete, it looked harder than .12a, and it's a rock climb.

Stephens at the very start of Niccorette 5.12a

After this climb we left, waited in line at the tunnel forever, and got out of Kentucky. We decided to spend Monday at the New River Gorge, which was a nice suprise for me.

Iron in the Rock

My favorite time of the day, leaving Kentucky with jugs on my mind, and ginger-ale in my tummy!

Sunset in my Mirror!

Getting Lucky In Kentucky Day 2

              Day two started the same as the first, overcast and a little moist. Everyday was like this, and I was really hoping that it wasn't going to rain, despite the Red's overhanging routes. We slid into Miguels, ate breakfast and we're on our way. Today we decided to hit PMRP because Stephens wanted to get on MILF Money 5.13b. At about 8:45 we were on the road, heading south of Miguel's. We made a switchback onto a beautiful gravel road that overlooked the farms.

Farmland in Kentucky above PMRP

About to head down the hill to PMRP

         We started down the gravel road, and it stared to get very steep. Unfortunately this was everyone's first time coming to PMRP, so we had no idea that this can be a very rough hill. I was a bit worried about the minivan making it back out. Eventually we came to the bottom of the hill and found the parking lot at the end. We got ourselves packed up, and headed straight to the Drive-By Crag. The first climb we jumped on was called Make a Wish 5.10a, which was one of the best routes we got on, during the whole trip. It started with a boulder problem (V2+) to a nice jug. The next two bolts went up edges and side-pulls, and onto a no-hand's rest. After that it goes up pleasant pocket's, and had a great sequence. 

Make A Wish 5.10a

Drive-By crag fauna!

Stephens being an attentive belayer.

          After we warmed up we hiked along the base of the cliff, coming to a huge amphitheatre of rock which held the Sharma Project. We thought this area was so beautiful, that we decided we hade to do a climb there. Unfortunately the easiest thing is a 5.13a. So we jumped on it because it had perma-draws on it. The climb is called Easy Rider, and it's a very, very long route.  This climb is my next red-point goal, because it's such an impressive line. 

Me on Easy Rider

Stephens gettin' it on Easy Rider 5.13a

Stephens Falling on Easy Rider 5.13a

After we had a fun time on Easy Rider, we hiked past Thug Life (.13d), and the Sharma project. The guidebook says it right, "where does he intend to start the climb". Not only is the first bolt 90ft of the deck, but getting off the deck requires one of three things. Either an A0 bolt ladder, suction cups, or wizardry/ jedi tricks. So Harry Potter go for it, maybe work it with Anakin. Shrama's got nothing on that team up. After passing the massive Amphitheatre we hiked around to the Bob Marley Crag. Stephens saw M.I.L.F. Money in the guide book, the photo showed a guy dyno-ing to a jug with a big smile on his face. This photo lies. So does the description. And the grade. FA was Sean McColl at the Petzl RocTrip in 2007. Only problem when you have such a strong climber climb this route, it get's graded 5.13a/b. It felt VERY hard, shallow pockets at the beginning. The rest I can't tell because that's as far as we got! But the "5.9" choss after the start looks at least 5.12c. When we did eventually get back to civilization we found that the route has only been sent by a small handfull of climbers. Consensus on the grade is 5.13c/d. 

MILF Money 5.Hard+

Stephens on MILF Money

Wildflowers basking in the Money from Milf's

After our failed attempt we headed around the corner to see awesome jug hauls that roam wild in the Red River Gorge. We decided to rest and eat lunch before heading over. Unfortunately while we were eating, the quick-draw wrasslers managed to occupy all of the climbs except for one 5.12a. Everything else had somebody on it, even Southern Smoke Direct 5.14d. If somebody weren't on it, I know I would have flashed that. We headed to the very end of the crag, dodging dogs, babies, and stick-clips.

The climb looked amazingly juggy (and it was), but for some reason an oil digger decided, back in the day, to drill straight through the cliff. We couldn't understand why, but hey what can you do. The climb was insanely steep, on great holds. At the top of the over-hang you can get a half rest on a heel-hook (or a full rest if you take). The crux is getting to the chains, which is scary because the climb isn't very high up! 

Stephens on Eyeball Chaw 5.12a (notice the oil pipe directly beneath him).

Another Shot of Eyeball Chaw and the Oil Pipe

Stephens Swimming in Jugs on Eyeball Chaw 5.12a

We stayed here a while, pondering where to go next, whether we should wait for a the Top-Rope heroes to get their kids past the 5.7 part of a 5.12, or to go to Chica Bonita. Well the kid was struggling to move from that one huge hold to another, so we went to Chica Bonita. My brilliance got us into the first 5.11a at Chico Bonita. We joked about the guy in the guidebook photo looking like he was trying really hard. Soon I was eating my words as I couldn't even pull the start move. Eventually I made the slopey moves into a painful underling. The next moves were easier but still rough. Soon I was on bad crimps, clipping into a loose bolt. I made it to the top, but it wasn't fun. 

The Dude Abides 5.11a (Real life grade 5.11c)

Stephens cleaning because I was done with bad climbs, what a bro.

We decided we were done climbing on anything over 5.11, so we looked in the guidebook for pleasant looking 5.10. There were pleanty, but we had to find one without people on it. We found one and started the hike to the climb. After hiking for a bit longer than expected, we cam to an amphitheatre. We knew exactly where we were, and the climb should have been within a few hundred metres from where we were. In this time there was another party looking for the same exact climb. The race was on. After 30 minutes of looking around the other group gave up. As they walked away, heads hung, Ryan was using what little signal he had, to scour the interweb. He found that we had to go back down another oil road to find a tiny off shoot up to the crag. It sounded like a pain, but we were already commited. We again tried to find it on the road, with no luck. So Ryan got back on the phone and got more beta (tape at the trailhead). We found it and began a miserable mud scramble up to the crag. Stephens lead it, Ryan got warm on it, and I cleaned it. At the crag we agreed that it was a pretty horrible climb. So much lichen that you couldn't stick feet. To add on the crappy approach, and unknown location, every single hold was razor blade sharp. I feel like I'm complaining a lot, but we put a lot of effort to get to it, and it wasn't as good as it sounded in the guidebook. The climb is caled Good Gravy 5.10b. To get there, walk down the cliff, when you think you've gone to far...keep going. (Later at Miguels Stephens said he enjoyed the climb...he lies.) 

Salamander on the way to Good Gravy.

If you're looking for Good Gravy and see this sight, keep going!

Stephens on Good Gravy 5.10b

After this climb we called it a day, hiked down to the van and clawed our way up the hill!

Saturday Night at Miguels.

Getting Luck In Kentucky Day 1

            The RRG trip started at the Rock Gym, when I was looking at photo's of a climb called Twinkie (.12a). One of the harder climbers at the gym, Ryan Lieberman recognized the climb, and asked if I was planning on going out. I told him I wanted to but had nobody to go with. So rock climbers being rock climbers, we threw together a last minute trek from VBRG to Slade Kentucky. At a distance of 580 miles, this was the farthest I have ever driven for a climbing trip. Little did I know that it was not going to be a cragging trip, instead, this place was a climbing mecca. Some of the best rock east of the Mississippi. Also being with such hard climbers, we all fueled each others motivation to climb hard. I don't think there was a single day that we didn't get on a 5.12. So here are the routes that we got on:

RRG

 •Put Me In The Zoo---5.9+                                               Sunshine---5.9

•Hippocrite---5.12a                                                             Put Me In The Zoo---5.9+

  •Scar Tissue---5.12a                                                         Trigger Happy---5.10a

•Edgehog---5.10d                                                               Make A Wish---5.10b

•Make A Wish---5.10b                                                       Good Gravy---5.10b

•Easy Rider---5.13a                                                            Edgehog---5.10d

•MILF Money---5.13b                                                        The Dude Abides---5.11a

•Eyeball Chaw 5.12a                                                          Forearm Follies---5.11d

•The Dude Abides---5.11a                                                 Raindancer---5.10a

•Raindancer---5.10a                                                          Scar Tissue---5.12a

•Good Grave---5.10b                                                         Hippocrite---5.12a

•Sunshine---5.9                                                                   Nicorrete---5.12a

•Tissue Tiger---5.12b                                                          Eyeball Chaw---5.12a

•Forearm Follies---5.11d                                                     All The Way Baby---5.12b

•Nicorrete---5.12a                                                               Easy Rider---5.13a

NRG                                                                                    Apollo Reed---5.13a

•Trigger Happy---5.10a                                                      MILF Money---5.13b 

•Apollo Reed---5.13a

•All The Way Baby---5.12b

                We left Virginia Beach and immediatly hit traffic at around 3:30pm. It was a beautiful sunny day. Once we got past the Hampton Roads and the traffic cleared up. About an hour and a half later, a wall of black cloud was looming over Richmond, VA. Stephens and Ryan's phones came alive with warnings of flooding and a tornado. Soon the rain was falling so hard that I couldn't see 15 feet infront of the car. I just kept going, and although the emergency alerts told us to seek shelter, we preessed on through Richmond. The sky cleared up as quickly as it began, and there was evidence of storm damage. 

Thunder Heads in Richmond, VA

More Thunder Heads

After stopping for some chalk at REI, we headed out on I-64W towards the hills which I have missed so much. After that not a whole lot happened, the wheels turned, the miles crept by, and before I knew it we crossed the border from Virginia to Kentucky.

No, no it's cool, only 461 miles to go!

By 3am we arrived and were pleasantly suprised to see only a handful of tents at Miguel's Pizzeria. Stephens and Ryan set up there tent, while I got my bed in the Mini-Van ready. Unfortunatley, I forgot that this was Kentucky, land of the bugs. Here I am relaxing in the sleeping bag, when I look up and see the ceiling of the van covered with bugs (they were gone the next day)! All in all I drove around 11.5 hours.

The next morning I was woken up promptly a 6:30am by a sleepy looking Ryan. I felt like crap on only 3ish hours of sleep, but hey, when it's time to get up, it's time to get up. Apparently Miguel's isn't 24/7 anymore either, they open at 7am, so I could have slept in! Once we were sufficiently filled with French Toast, we headed south to "The Zoo". We parked at the side, packed up and headed up to the crag.

First morning at Miguels, a little foggy.

Parking Lot For the Zoo

To get to the crag, you have to cross this log, then head up a 3rd class hill.

So my first outdoor rope climb on the East Coast was a fantastic slab climb called "Put Me In The Zoo" (5.9+). The start was the hardest part, with a few crimps, but after that it became a masterful mantle-piece. Once we got warmed up, we headed over to Hippocrite (5.12a), a climb we had all looked at and decided it looked like something we could on-sight. But before we could even reach Hippocrite, Stephens had his attention piqued by the severely overhanging, jug haul, called "Scar Tissue". He went for the on-sight, but pumped out on the difficult finish. All in all not to bad for a few boulderers (we need to work endurance!).

Scar Tissue 5.12a

Stephens Nunnally on Scar Tissue and Ryan Lieberman on belay.

After Stephens put up the draws, I hopped on going for my on-sight attempt, hoping I could make it further. The climb is only 3 stars, but it needs to be more. Super huge jugs (dirty start), and the amazing thing about the route is that you don't notice the pump...until you hit something that's not a jug! Caught by suprise of the pump, I fell at the last bolt going up to the anchors.

Stephens after being lowered from Scar Tissue 5.12a (the pump is real).

Ryan decided to save his energy for his on-sight attempt of hippocrite, so we left the draws hanging on Scar Tissue so that we could come back to it. Ryan headed up Hippocrite, and fell at the third bolt right at the under-clings. However he did make the hero crux-clip which was really freaky! We all tried Hippocrite over and over again, until eventually we were to wrecked to continue.

Ryan Lieberman after a fall at the crux of Hippocrite 5.12a

Stephens Nunnally clipping the 3rd bolt of Hippocrite 5.12a

Stephens falling off the crux of Scar Tissue 5.12a

After this Stephens cleaned the route and we went to go find a moderate climb to cool down on. We eventually found a "cool down" called "Edgehog"(5.10d). Slabby Micro-crimps (did I mention MICRO!) to a dirty 5.9 run-out. Stephens and Ryan lead this, but I decided on the TR.

Slabby BS is not what I came here for!

After that we drove back to camp to eat pizza, slackline, and play the loooooonnngest game of chess.

Stephens and Ryan (The Bickering Couple)

I think we can safely say that Ryan has lost.

Enjoying "A Late One"

Stephens slacklining

Ryan...well...he's trying right?

Climbing Life Hacks and Workouts!

         This all started off as a joke one day while climbing at Stoneworks. I was talking with Tristan and Jordan about things that they do to stay in shape. Both of them are great climbers, but a little bit different when it comes to climbing. Jordan is more like me, where he put's in a lot of time and effort into training at the gym. Tristan on the other hand only does a few exercises every now and again. Or so I thought! I asked him how he kept in such amazing shape without even trying! So he told me all of his little secrets, and now I'm telling the whole world!!

         First however I'm going to tell you that all of this was just us messing around trying to find things to do instead of working out! Yes, yes, we're lazy climbers, but we need ways to stay in shape and have fun right??? So here are a few ways to stay in shape and have fun while doing it!!!!!!

#1 THE TRICKY TRISTAN PLANK

Step one: find yourself a good place to do a plank!!

Step two: get your smartphone!!

Step three: Open your favorite game on said smartphone!! (The Tricky Tristan is best done with FLAPPY BIRD OR CYTUS)

Step four: Play your game in plank position until your arms, or abs give out!!!!

The Tricky Tristan modeled perfectly by Jordan Campbell

#2 THE CLEANSING CRUNCH

The Cleansing Crunch is an excellent way to stay fit with a time restricting schedule. Now the cleansing crunch can be hard to do, mostly because it happens in the morning when you wake up, and right before you go to bed. But it's three minutes of Ab burning pleasure!!!

                Materials:

                  •Toothbrush

                  •Toothpaste

                  •A clear head/determination to do this in the morning.

                  •Stopwatch/timer

Step One: Set your timer for three minutes. ( or more if you're an awesome morning person!!)

Step Two: Set up your toothbrush for maximum brush-ability!!!

Step Three: Get in crunch position!!!

Step Four: Do as many crunches in three minutes WHILE brushing your teeth! (Flex your abs at the top of each crunch for added pump)

BEWARE: Tristan also came up with this one, so blame him if you choke on your toothpaste!! Also he's crazy so maybe he like's it??

Cleansing that crunch!

#3 THE TWO FOR TWO

The Two For Two is an odd one, and you need a pull up bar or a hangboard. The TFT can work in any room in the house, but for the name to work, it should be in the bathroom (but like a said it works in any room). Basically, mount your pull-up bar or hang board in a room. Then every time you enter the room you do 2 pull-ups, or lock of for any amount of time. Also do it when you leave the room. This is a great one and takes very little time (and if you move around a lot in your house/apartment/room/van/tent/box) and you'll do a ton of pull-ups!

TFT all up in my room!

#4 CROUCHING DOG-BONE, HIDDEN CLIPPY-THING

This one is not for fitness, but it is one of the more important things. Every time I climb, I notice the people clip very, very, very slowly. Now this is fine if you're just starting to climb. But if you're looking to red-point on a new level, the difference of a few seconds can change the whole climb. This often overlooked skill is amazing and will help you climb more efficiently, and better. So first you must learn your clips!!

#1 Middle Finger Clip

#2 Pinch Clip

#3 The Hamfist

I don't like to hamfist, but I do know some people who swear by it! For me I've just never needed to do it!!!!

       Ok so now you know how to clip, go hang a quickdraw somewhere in your house that you spend a lot of time in (bedroom, living room, bathroom??? etc.) And everyday clip it 50 times. Or as many as you have time to do. Don't forget to switch-up your clips, alternating the kind of clip, and which hand you use. If you notice you're bad at one of them , focus on that one and become a god at clipping. Soon you'll be on your way to sending 5.15b and leaving Ondra to fumble with his quickdraws'.

THE SERIOUS WORKOUT

      Now this is the point in the blog where I turn to serious training methods that I do in the gym to (try) to get better. It's a bunch of different workouts compiled from a bunch of different climbers. For me I always train Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. So here is what my workout looks like:

Monday

Warm up: Jumping Jacks, and LIGHT stretching. Then I traverse on the wall for about 10 minutes. (Stoneworks has a great traverse with over 200 moves, so I always get on that to stay consistent, and always do it with features for feet). I'm always focusing on keeping my breathing consistent, and focusing on keeping absolutely quite feet.

Free-Session: After traversing I stretch out and let my arms rest. Everyday I climb I make room in my workout schedule to have fun and climb projects/new route's. Without this I would be completely miserable because I HATE working out!!! So remember always have fun, and nothing should get in the way of that, even working out.

Workout A: On Monday, the workout is all about endurance, so I head over to the auto-belay and get on the 3rd hardest route. I normally do this anywhere from 5 times to 8 times, and try to build a good pump going. Normally this means repeatedly doing 5.11 moves without getting off (I like to choose a route that I can do, but is not easy for me). Normally towards the last few laps I start to fall on the crux, once this starts to happen, I get on the next easiest route, usually down to consistent 5.10 moves, again as I start to fail on this, I move down to the next easiest, now 5.9. This is where I normally end this segment because the pump is strong. Unclip from the Auto-belay (if you can hahaha!) and go to an area with enough room to do an ab workout (preferably with a hangboard nearby or a pull-up bar). Go immediately from auto-belay and do 10 pull-ups on the jug holds on a hangboard, on the last one hold a full lock-off for as long as possible and slowly lower down. 

Workout B: After the pull-ups, I do 50 crunches at a medium pace, then roll immediately into a plank  for 45 seconds. After that I do 40 side crunches, 20 on the left, and 20 on the right. Then 50 more crunches, followed immediately by a 6 inch leg lift for 30 seconds. I now have 8 minutes of rest time, to talk with people, stretch, and most importantly drink water. Focus on trying to get maximum rest by stretching and  de-pumping your arms.

Workout C: After my rest, I hook back up to the auto-belay. This time I start on the easiest route, but instead of max laps, I focus on footwork. On every hold, do a lock-off and hold for 5 seconds, and do this for every hold. If you lock-off your left arm, reach as high as possible with your right hand. Don't put your right hand on the next hold, just hover. And keep doing that up the wall. When you've completed the easiest route, move to the next hardest one and do the same thing. Do this until you can't hold your lock-off. Unclip from the Auto-belay and go back to your area to do an ab workout and pull-ups. Go immediately from auto-belay and do 10 pull-ups on the jug holds on a hangboard, on the last one hold a full lock-off for as long as possible and slowly lower down. 

Workout B: After the pull-ups, I do 50 crunches at a medium pace, then roll immediately into a plank  for 45 seconds. After that I do 40 side crunches, 20 on the left, and 20 on the right. Then 50 more crunches, followed immediately by a 6 inch leg lift for 30 seconds. I now have 8 minutes of rest time, to talk with people, stretch, and most importantly drink water. Focus on trying to get maximum rest by stretching and  de-pumping your arms.

After this my workout is done. I normally don't go home, I just hang out with friends in the gym and lightly climb. When I get home I like to massage my arms and eat a heft man meal.

Wednesday

Warm up: Jumping Jacks, and LIGHT stretching. Then I traverse on the wall for about 10 minutes. (Stoneworks has a great traverse with over 200 moves, so I always get on that to stay consistent, and always do it with features for feet). I'm always focusing on keeping my breathing consistent, and focusing on keeping absolutely quite feet.

Free-Session: After traversing I stretch out and let my arms rest. Everyday I climb I make room in my workout schedule to have fun and climb projects/new route's.

Workout A: On Wednesdays, I like to focus on bouldering/power-endurance. The workout is a simple 5X5. I find 5 routes that I can do, but are difficult for me. I like to choose route's that will help me with outdoor climbing (recently it's been overhanging but decent hold for New River Gorge style climbing). So the 5X5 looks like this, you do your first climb 5 time's, never stopping, try not to do a top-out or if it is a top-out, jump off. Then immediately move to the second climb, again same concept, never stop moving for all route's. So basically you're climbing 25 moderate climbs. For me I stick to V4-V5.  This builds an amazing pump, and try not to do laps on anything with tweaky moves, and always keep a good rhythm and good footwork.

Workout B: Take a 2 minute break and head over to the hangboard station. I do a simple hangboard workout with 15lbs. I pick 6 holds that I'm not great at, and do a 7 second hang, 3 second rest. And do that 7 times for one hold. Rest for 1 minute, then repeat the same thing on the next hold. I like to focus on crimps, slopers, and pockets, as these are the holds that I always need work on. Remember basic hangboard safety such as slightly bend elbows, and an open hand grip. 

Workout C: After the hangboard I do 50 crunches at a medium pace, then roll immediately into a plank  for 45 seconds. After that I do 40 side crunches, 20 on the left, and 20 on the right. Then 50 more crunches, followed immediately by a 6 inch leg lift for 30 seconds. I now have 8 minutes of rest time, to talk with people, stretch, and most importantly drink water. Focus on trying to get maximum rest by stretching and  de-pumping your arms.

Workout A: Again go back and do 5X5. I like to choose new routes then the set from before. Remember to never stop moving for all route's. So you're climbing 25 moderate climbs. For me I stick to V4-V5.  This builds an amazing pump, and try not to do laps on anything with tweaky moves, and always keep a good rhythm and good footwork.

Workout D: This last simple one is a good way to get one arm lock strength on vertical routes. Start in pull up position on rings or free hanging holds. Pull up with both hands slowly and rotate into a one arm lock-off. I like to have another hold for my other hand to go to but is not necessary. I don't like to drop back down into pull up position because it feels like a great way to wreck your elbows so drop back down and repeat with other arm. You're just working on your ability move throughout a lock-off. Do 5-8 on each side.

Step one of the lock-off

Step two of lock off  ( try to do as statically as possible)

Lock-off from the other side (you can do chin-up lock-off, or pull-up lock-off, like the one Jordan is doing in the photo).

Now the workout is done for the day and I once again become a lazy dormant climber, scamper around, eat some food, and dig up some nuts, maybe a cam or two?

Found a Cam…what an odd creature.

Friday

Friday I will always hold dear to my heart. The end of a hard week is always a good time to enjoy yourself.

Warm up: Jumping Jacks, and LIGHT stretching. Then I traverse on the wall for about 10 minutes. (Stoneworks has a great traverse with over 200 moves, so I always get on that to stay consistent, and always do it with features for feet). I'm always focusing on keeping my breathing consistent, and focusing on keeping absolutely quite feet.

Workout A: This is the best workout of all. No workout. That's right. Go to a new gym, climb projects, do whatever you want. If you're going climbing for the weekend, take the day of, just remember…cycle start again on Monday….dreaded Monday. Have a great weekend!