Best Climbs at Smith Rock (over 5.11)

So I thought since I did a post about my favorite, less seen, easy climbs in the untouched areas of Smith, that I would do one about the harder (over 5.11) routes of Smith. Sure everybody knows about the awesome Heinous  Cling, but who hasn't gotten on that?! So here are some of my favorite, more unlikely climbs that will test you in new ways.

First up is the amazing 5.11d called Blackened. There have been many skepticisms about the grading because there are multiple ways to do it. I've talked to multiple people who say that one way id the true .11d and the other is not, and vice versa. But I think both ways of doing it is 5.11d. So get up there and do what feels right. Here's my take on it. Climb up easy terrain past the first three bolts, at this point there is a ledge big enough to sit on and relax. You can clip your fourth bolt while sitting, and once you stand up you can reach your next bolt. Lieback on the sharp crack, and get a high left foot. Once you've cleared the first moves in the crack it eases up. Follow the bolts up through decent pockets. The crux come from right hand in a good pocket and left in a bad sloper. The crux comes right between the last two bolts.

Making my way to ledge at the 3rd bolt

Lying back on the crack into easier ground

Almost at the anchors of Blackened

The next one is a classic, and unfortunately many, many people have climbed it. But is no less a classic and a must do. The route I'm talking about is Toxic. This 5.11b is worth the hike into Aggro Gully, even if it's the only thing you'll be getting on. Despite all the people that have climber it, the texture of the rock hasn't suffered. Toxic has a great position, and fun moves, large moves between big buckets. The crux of the route is getting to the large basketball sized hole in the wall, the original beta was to dyne for it, but now people do it static with a heel hook. After the crux there isn't much that is very interesting, buck it can pump you out by the end of the route. Definitely a must do if you haven't already done it!

Me in the big hole in the wall

Tristan Sommers doing the static beta and pulling through the crux

This next climb is one of my all time favorite climbs. Definitely top 5. The route is located in the Northern Point, and is unlike anything in all of Smith Rock. You won't find many crimps on the route. There isn't a single knob. Like the Lower Gorge, Northern Point is made of Basalt Rimrock, which normally makes for some slopey and technical climbs. But this route, you'll need more brawn that brains. The route is called Torrid Zone, and goes at 5.12a. It goes through some amazingly huge holds, with just about nothing for feet. The crux comes at the fourth bolt with a bad sloper to hang off of with no feet. Scrunch up tight and pull out of the roof. The great thing about Northern Point is that you can set top ropes, but for Torrid Zone, the crux is not all about making the moves, but instead the crux is making the clip off of the sloper. All in all a great climb that I recommend especially in the summer because it's always in the shade.

Me right before the crux of Torrid, smiling about the pleasant jugs!

About to clip the crux bolt

Getting to the sloper

The next climb is a big hike away. That's right it's a fun Marsupial climb. Mike Brem and I stumbled upon this gem while coming down off of Broghan Spire. We rappelled down and saw this amazing line. It looked like a fun overhanging jug haul. Maybe a 5.10c. But then we got on it and found it to be a little more difficult than that. Allow me to introduce you to Pouches, 5.11c. This climb is great if you're in the are and want a medium sport route. When we got on it, there was loose rock around the 6th bolt, but apparently now it has become more solid. And possibly harder??

Brem rappelling down Pouches 5.11c

The last one I want to bring up is a project of mine. It's my exact opposite style, which makes me want to do it that much more. It's a crimpy tech-fest in the Monument. The route is called Water Groove 5.12b. The true beta is to go up the middle of the groove, but I stay way left. There are 2 or 3 good jugs, I had to clean up of them because I kept dropping big rocks, but now it's pretty solid. My beta involves a dyne, followed by a leftward traverse into the groove. Follow up technical stemming to a double gaston crux! Really funky movement but really fun!!!

About to enter the crux

The crux!!!

The best climbs at Smith Rock???

          I have always disagreed with rock climbing guidebook star rating. Whats the point in telling people that To Bolt is a four star climb. Yes sure it's a four star climb, but it's also a .14a! Yes there are people out there that can climb that, but it is very few. So right here and right now, I'm going to make a list of my favorite easy to medium routes at Smith Rock.

          The first candidate is the 2 pitch knob-fest 5.8 called Ginger Snap! Ginger Snap is located in the Dihedrals, and climbs the face to the right of Cinnamon Slab. Ginger Snap is a fully bolted sport route with anchors. This climb is a wonderful first multi because it's easy and it let's you top out in the Dihedrals. You can either rappel using a 60m rope, or walk off. The rappel is simpler just beware of who you're throwing your rope on top of!

Me at the top of the first pitch of Ginger Snap 5.8

The next route I want to bring up is on the Smith Rock Group. It's a multi-pitch classic that receives 3 stars in the guide book. While there is some loose rock, this climb puts you in one of the greatest positions in the park. The route is called Lost in Space and it goes free at .10b. It has 5 pitches, of fully bolted rock, all the way to the top. Pitch 1 starts at the base of a chimney, and goes up and left, don't use the first anchors you com to as there is another anchor not far away. This pitch goes at 5.6 and uses 12 draws. Pitch 2 isn't actually a pitch, but traverse over two anchors, and reach a point called the Perch, a medium sized ledge with an anchor. Above you should see a small roof and more bolts. Pitch 3 goes up and slightly right on sharp crimps and knobs for about 6 bolts. The crux of this pitch comes right at the beginning pulling out of the roof (5.10c) and then runs up the face to a hanging belay. Pitch 4 leads through 10 bolts up a knobby slab that goes at .10b. again to another hanging belay. Pitch 5 goes up to the top with a rating of 5.9, but to me it felt much easier. The rock is choosy on this pitch so try to be delicate. The positive thing about this pitch is that you do wander to the right of your belayer so he/she should be safe from falling rock. From the top you can walk around to different summits which is a really great place to view the park. Rappel down the same route with a 70m or rappel of Wherever I May Roam with a 60m.

Top of the 3rd pitch of Lost in Space

The beautiful Crooked River from the Top of the 4th Pitch

Toped out and enjoying the Views

Are you tired of the crimpy knobby climbs that inhabit Smith Rock?? Well you probably shouldn't have come here. But for those who want jugs, don't ever go to 5 Gallon Buckets. Not only will you have to wait for days to get on the climb (somebody is always climbing it….always), but it's also such a slimy mess that I can't comprehend how it could be fun for anyone!!! So instead of descending into Smith, crossing the bridge, and taking a left hand turn….take a right to the New Frontier of Smith Rock climbing. The Monument area is a great place, and though it may only be open for a few months, it is worth the visit. Whether you're looking for jug hauling, or crimp cranking, the Monument has got it. 

Right at the base of the Monument there is a field of giant hueco's, basking in the sun. It may be a little loose, but the more people that climb it, the better the rock gets. This area is brilliant and houses 7 jug hauling sport route that knock 5 Gallon Buckets into the dirt. The climbs here range from 5.6 to 5.10a, and are mostly all jug hauls. If you're looking for something hard to do out in the Monument, you can still look to this same wall. A route called Abraxas goes all the way to the top, and although it can be freed at a 5.12a R, aid ascents are much more common. This route is burly, but starts very unexpectedly with the first pitch being Lounger (5.6). Clear the first pitch and move up and right onto an insecure face with 3 bolts, and then step right into an amazingly huge flake that runs up the wall. Reach the top of this monstrous flake and hand traverse to the left to the anchor. This pitch is rated 5.9 and takes trad gear to 3 inches. The next pitch is a 5.11a that is tricky to start. Clip the first two bolts and a pin, and prepare for the crux. It was a manageable crux, but we pulled of the main theft crimp, feels more like an .11c/d move now. Loose rock and sketchy bolts run you up the face to the next anchor. After all the loose rock we decided to pull out before things got out of hand, but the next pitch goes at 12a, then the pitch after that goes to the amazing Tombstone Crack which goes at 10d and take straw gear to 3 inches. 

Me in one of the huecos

Me beating a hasty retreat from Abraxas 5.12a R

Climbing Approaching Twilight 5.9

Brem being punted off of Eat Your Leberkäse 5.12b

Me climbing Water Groove 5.12b

Ok the final one, and my personal favorite route to climb. Every time I come to Smith Rock, I climb this route. It's a three pitch classic that was bolted while climbing. When I first got on it, it was not very popular, today it's still not known as a classic, but it should be. The route is called Voyage of the Cowdog, and it goes at 5.9. Begin by hiking up Shipwreck Gully on the far left side, once near the top start to hike right. Go all the way up the far right gully until it comes sot rock. Locate the first bolt on the slab and then follow it up and right. The first pitch is kind of a heap. I think this is the crux pitch because of some pretty small holds. Climbs through 9 bolts to a good ledge. Pitch 2 is not a pitch, it's 3 bolts, and one of the bolts is on the ground…uh…yeah! It is exposed so you will still want to clip them. Pitch 3 is the money pitch. Only rivaled in exposure by the Monkey Face, this 5.9 face climbs up wonderfully big holds, that are surprisingly solid. If ever it feels hard, move to the right near the arete. There is one run-out but it's on bomber holds, there are 9 bolts altogether. The crux of the pitch comes at the very top with a high left foot step up. You can either rappel down the same route with a 60m (the 60m BARELY reaches the bottom of the 3rd and 1st pitches. Or you can walk off, which involves one more bolt, and jump down an unexposed 5 foot cliff.

Meghan at the top of P1 of VOTC

Meghan in the middle of the 3rd pitch of VOTC

Meghan topping out on VOTC

Beware: The wind at the top of pitch two can be very cold!!! You can seek shelter in a small cave off to the left!!

Sunset from the top of VOTC

So here is the finished list of climbs that I love, and many people don't even touch:

-Ginger Snap 5.8

-Lost in Space 5.10b

-Lounger 5.6
-Bagpiping in the Buff 5.7
-Approaching Twilight 5.9
-Snow Bunny 5.8
-Praying Mantel 5.10a

-Abraxas (if you're very brave) 5.12a R

-Voyage of the Cowdog 5.9

-Water Groove 5.12b

It's 2014 and Time to Climb!!

Hey everyone, I don't expect many to check this, mostly it's for me to track my progress as a climber. But if anyone does check it out I will be putting up climbing videos with beta, and some training for climbing!

So the first thing I want to put up is my latest trip to Smith Rock, We didn't climb super hard because it was a pretty mellow trip, but we all had fun!

Here's the ticklist:
-Voyage of the Cowdog 5.8+
-Lounger 5.6
-Bagpiping in the Buff 5.7
-Approaching Twilight 5.9
-Snow Bunny 5.8
-Praying Mantel 5.10a
-Dancing with Clams 5.10a
-Super Slab 5.6
-Gulag Archipelago 5.11d

Can't wait for the Next trip and hopefully it warms up a few degrees so I can get on some projects!!

Here's a photo of my trying Water Groove 5.12b

Meghan topping out on Voyage of the Cowdog 5.8+

Me climbing You Break It, You Buy It 5.10c

Trying to catch some sleep after an all-nighter drive in Nelly!

Meghan with the Shipwreck

Meghan untying on VOTC

Happy I brought her favorite food!

Nap time after lunch.

Me on Approaching Twilight 5.9

Climbing a tree from my childhood.

Did you know that the Lion King was shot at Smith Rock??

Smith Rock Group Summit late December

Meghan on Super Slab 5.6

Me coming down off of Gulag Archipelago 5.11d

A Year of Climbing and Fun!!!