Tom Sanders Climbing: Getting Pumpy in Kentuncky? Day 3

Again the day started clouds and wet. The southern heat has spoiled me to the cold. Anything under 60º and I get goosebumps. In Oregon, if it gets over 60º you break out the bro-tanks. Yadayada eating Miguels, food, nutella, water. We decided that today we would go RRG North. Ryan and Stephens recommended Military Wall, as far as I was concerned, I was just along for the ride. The drive was scenic and we got to drive through a long one lane tunnel. Very sketch with lots of traffic. Basically to make it through, you have to screw someone over. We parked and hiked up to the crag. The first climb was a non-descript 5.9 called Sunshine. Not a lot I can say about it other than that it was a 5.9. After our warm-up, we went straight to Tissue Tiger 5.12b. Beautiful rock, and stellar moves. It looks like a classic jug haul, but it's not. The holds are good, but just slightly sloping on overganging terrain.

Stephens on Tissue Tiger 5.12b

Stephens at the top of Tissue Tiger 5.12b

After Tissue Tiger, we were told about a jug haul 5.12b around the corner called Forearm Follies. We investigated and were intrigued. I put up the draws on this one. The start boulder problem was hard only because everything was chalked, but not everything was good. So many pockets I had to choose which ones to hit. After the boulder problem at the base, it's just jug after jug. There's even a whole handle up there. I got to the first anchor (5.11d) and called it good. The 5.12b part had bees all over it. But the true reason I didn't go was because I was pumped beyond all belief. The best part is coming down because the climb is tall and overhung.

My feet at the top of Forearm Follies 5.12b (1st anchor 5.11d)

Flowers at the top of Forearm Follies.

After this I was burnt, but Stephens wanted to get on one more 5.12a called Niccorette. He was the only one to climb it. So...it's an arete, it looked harder than .12a, and it's a rock climb.

Stephens at the very start of Niccorette 5.12a

After this climb we left, waited in line at the tunnel forever, and got out of Kentucky. We decided to spend Monday at the New River Gorge, which was a nice suprise for me.