Day two started the same as the first, overcast and a little moist. Everyday was like this, and I was really hoping that it wasn't going to rain, despite the Red's overhanging routes. We slid into Miguels, ate breakfast and we're on our way. Today we decided to hit PMRP because Stephens wanted to get on MILF Money 5.13b. At about 8:45 we were on the road, heading south of Miguel's. We made a switchback onto a beautiful gravel road that overlooked the farms.
Farmland in Kentucky above PMRP
About to head down the hill to PMRP
We started down the gravel road, and it stared to get very steep. Unfortunately this was everyone's first time coming to PMRP, so we had no idea that this can be a very rough hill. I was a bit worried about the minivan making it back out. Eventually we came to the bottom of the hill and found the parking lot at the end. We got ourselves packed up, and headed straight to the Drive-By Crag. The first climb we jumped on was called Make a Wish 5.10a, which was one of the best routes we got on, during the whole trip. It started with a boulder problem (V2+) to a nice jug. The next two bolts went up edges and side-pulls, and onto a no-hand's rest. After that it goes up pleasant pocket's, and had a great sequence.
Make A Wish 5.10a
Drive-By crag fauna!
Stephens being an attentive belayer.
After we warmed up we hiked along the base of the cliff, coming to a huge amphitheatre of rock which held the Sharma Project. We thought this area was so beautiful, that we decided we hade to do a climb there. Unfortunately the easiest thing is a 5.13a. So we jumped on it because it had perma-draws on it. The climb is called Easy Rider, and it's a very, very long route. This climb is my next red-point goal, because it's such an impressive line.
Me on Easy Rider
Stephens gettin' it on Easy Rider 5.13a
Stephens Falling on Easy Rider 5.13a
After we had a fun time on Easy Rider, we hiked past Thug Life (.13d), and the Sharma project. The guidebook says it right, "where does he intend to start the climb". Not only is the first bolt 90ft of the deck, but getting off the deck requires one of three things. Either an A0 bolt ladder, suction cups, or wizardry/ jedi tricks. So Harry Potter go for it, maybe work it with Anakin. Shrama's got nothing on that team up. After passing the massive Amphitheatre we hiked around to the Bob Marley Crag. Stephens saw M.I.L.F. Money in the guide book, the photo showed a guy dyno-ing to a jug with a big smile on his face. This photo lies. So does the description. And the grade. FA was Sean McColl at the Petzl RocTrip in 2007. Only problem when you have such a strong climber climb this route, it get's graded 5.13a/b. It felt VERY hard, shallow pockets at the beginning. The rest I can't tell because that's as far as we got! But the "5.9" choss after the start looks at least 5.12c. When we did eventually get back to civilization we found that the route has only been sent by a small handfull of climbers. Consensus on the grade is 5.13c/d.
MILF Money 5.Hard+
Stephens on MILF Money
Wildflowers basking in the Money from Milf's
After our failed attempt we headed around the corner to see awesome jug hauls that roam wild in the Red River Gorge. We decided to rest and eat lunch before heading over. Unfortunately while we were eating, the quick-draw wrasslers managed to occupy all of the climbs except for one 5.12a. Everything else had somebody on it, even Southern Smoke Direct 5.14d. If somebody weren't on it, I know I would have flashed that. We headed to the very end of the crag, dodging dogs, babies, and stick-clips.
The climb looked amazingly juggy (and it was), but for some reason an oil digger decided, back in the day, to drill straight through the cliff. We couldn't understand why, but hey what can you do. The climb was insanely steep, on great holds. At the top of the over-hang you can get a half rest on a heel-hook (or a full rest if you take). The crux is getting to the chains, which is scary because the climb isn't very high up!
Stephens on Eyeball Chaw 5.12a (notice the oil pipe directly beneath him).
Another Shot of Eyeball Chaw and the Oil Pipe
Stephens Swimming in Jugs on Eyeball Chaw 5.12a
We stayed here a while, pondering where to go next, whether we should wait for a the Top-Rope heroes to get their kids past the 5.7 part of a 5.12, or to go to Chica Bonita. Well the kid was struggling to move from that one huge hold to another, so we went to Chica Bonita. My brilliance got us into the first 5.11a at Chico Bonita. We joked about the guy in the guidebook photo looking like he was trying really hard. Soon I was eating my words as I couldn't even pull the start move. Eventually I made the slopey moves into a painful underling. The next moves were easier but still rough. Soon I was on bad crimps, clipping into a loose bolt. I made it to the top, but it wasn't fun.
The Dude Abides 5.11a (Real life grade 5.11c)
Stephens cleaning because I was done with bad climbs, what a bro.
We decided we were done climbing on anything over 5.11, so we looked in the guidebook for pleasant looking 5.10. There were pleanty, but we had to find one without people on it. We found one and started the hike to the climb. After hiking for a bit longer than expected, we cam to an amphitheatre. We knew exactly where we were, and the climb should have been within a few hundred metres from where we were. In this time there was another party looking for the same exact climb. The race was on. After 30 minutes of looking around the other group gave up. As they walked away, heads hung, Ryan was using what little signal he had, to scour the interweb. He found that we had to go back down another oil road to find a tiny off shoot up to the crag. It sounded like a pain, but we were already commited. We again tried to find it on the road, with no luck. So Ryan got back on the phone and got more beta (tape at the trailhead). We found it and began a miserable mud scramble up to the crag. Stephens lead it, Ryan got warm on it, and I cleaned it. At the crag we agreed that it was a pretty horrible climb. So much lichen that you couldn't stick feet. To add on the crappy approach, and unknown location, every single hold was razor blade sharp. I feel like I'm complaining a lot, but we put a lot of effort to get to it, and it wasn't as good as it sounded in the guidebook. The climb is caled Good Gravy 5.10b. To get there, walk down the cliff, when you think you've gone to far...keep going. (Later at Miguels Stephens said he enjoyed the climb...he lies.)
Salamander on the way to Good Gravy.
If you're looking for Good Gravy and see this sight, keep going!
Stephens on Good Gravy 5.10b
After this climb we called it a day, hiked down to the van and clawed our way up the hill!
Saturday Night at Miguels.
