Seneca Rocks

I had decided about 1.5 months ago that I wanted to take Julie outside climbing. I wasn't sure where to go at the time, I just knew that climbing was the goal. After asking a few people at the gym, I got a group together. We left Wednesday night and would come back on Sunday. A friend from Oregon that had been road tripping around the states, and took a great photo of Seneca Rocks in West Virginia. I decided that Seneca Rocks would be a beautiful place to go climb, and finalized the plan to go. The drive out is beautiful in the daylight, but the road into Seneca can be dangerous. We arrived at the campground around 1:30am, set up camp, had a few beers, and crashed for the morning. 

Thursday morning we awoke to some perfect West Virginian rain. Not super conductive of rock climbing. We bojangled around (according to Julie and Urban Dictionary this is a word.) waiting for the clouds to clear, but it never happened. We headed to Yokum's, sat on the porch and played card games to pass the time. 

 Rainy Seneca

 Waiting for a Clearing

Hmmmm.....BS!

After playing card games, we went to the visitor's center, asking about weather, and trails to the climbs. The lady behind the counter said two things. "It barely rains here", and, "There's only one trail". These to nuggets of information we're both lies. Not her fault though, she only knew of the hiking trail to the overlook. After Erica bought some awesome books on mushrooms and insects, Christine decided to give us all a lesson on headstands....because....well....why not?!

 Erica's Headstand

Christine's Headstand!

Julie's Headstand!

Trust me here, you don't want to see my headstand! After headstand sessions, we drove up Roy Gap Rd. where we met a great guy named Ricardo. He was a photographer, who also turned out to be our campsite neighbor. He was super nice and shared stories of his son, wife, and stories from Chile! Wherever he is we hope he is having a great time!

After some headstands we headed back to camp to check on the camp gear under the tarp, while there we waited for an hour and practiced our flagpoles!

Erica and Ricardo on the Bridge

Apparently there are some bombs in West Virginia

Julie's Flagpole 

Christine's Flagpole

Erica's Flagpole

Julie's Bathang!!

After monkeying around in camp, we headed back to Seneca to hike to the top. Everybody else decided (smartly) to not take packs up. Me on the otherhand did, and I suffered. It also didn't help that everybody was either a cross-fit junky, or cross-country runner. I gasped my way up the trail, and we made it to the lookout deck in about 35 minutes. The lookout was beautiful, despite being in and out of the clouds.

Picking Berries!

At the top of the Hike

The overlook at the top!

After the summit we headed down and the clouds started breaking apart for the sunset. We headed into town, got some beverages, and headed back to camp.

Seneca at Sunset

Safety First here at Seneca!

At the Camp with Ricardo

After our first rainy day, we woke up to brilliant sunshine, but unlike Virginia Beach, it was actually still cool outside! We got a lazy morning start (bojanglin'), ate breakfast, and headed out to the rock. After reading the book, we decided to head to the lower slabs. We hiked up the same path, this time my pack was even heavier, finding the trail that branched out, we headed down. We warmed up on R2D2, a sweet 5.5 in a corner crack system. The climbing "crux" was the first 30 feet, after that it was low 5th class to the top. After first leading it, and everybody else had toproped it, I decided I wanted to free solo the climb and clean the anchor at the top. Well I'm typing this right now so the solo went well, and I felt great at the top! I set up another toprope on a 5.8 that I don't know the name of! All I know is that it was fun! 

 Julie on R2D2

 View from the top of R2D2

View of the Rocks

Erica on the 5.8

Julie on the 5.8

Julie learning to rappel

After climbing and exploring around the area, I decided to take Julie on an adventure, this being her first time outdoor climbing. I wanted to show her some awesome exposure and a beautiful sunset. I had planned on going up to the Gunsight Notch, then up the amazing South Peak. Julie and I started hiking from Lower Slabs and ran into an Italian couple, who said the we wouldn't be able to access Gunsight Notch from the West Face, and were also a fair hike away. We thanked them for thier information, and contiued to head up. Worst comes to worst, we have a good hike. Not to much later we came up to the cliff face directly below the Gunsight Notch. I didn't even bother looking at the guide book, wanting to adventure climb up it. I found the path of least resistance, a left facing flake that went up about 60ft to a large ledge. I led the route, only needed to place 5 or 6 peices, and tried to dodge the huge loose blocks. The top had an odd crux, that was hard to pull, especially with the weighted pack. It involved a heel hook and left hand lock-off. I had to take once, but then figured it out. I would say the grade would be 5.8, but it's Seneca Rocks, it was probably only 5.6. After the climb, it turned into a hike up big ledges all the way to the Notch.

Julie following the 1st pitch.

Julie on the Notch!

South Peak!

We stayed at the notch for a few minutes taking in the beautiful sunset. Soon I started leading up the South Peak, quickly I realized I was "off-route" and away from the path of least resistance. Instead of going to the right of the fin, I went to the left, which turned out to be super exposed and very fun. A bigger plus is that so many people had bailed gear, that I only ended up putting in one hex at the start. I also threw in a 30ft runout, which felt amazing! I belayed Julie up and we enjoyed a spectacular few minutes basking in the sun. Soon we rappelled from the summit to a big ledge...barely.

Julie Rappeling down.

After rapping of the top, I put the rope away. Thinking that this ledge would eventually lead towards the ground. We followed the ledge down and south, hitting 10-20ft rock steps, that we down climbed. Some of them were very commiting, and involed some tough moves. Julies was completely fine the whole time and we made it to the ground after what felt like a long time descending. We eventually came out on Roy Gap Rd., realizing that we had to meet Christine and Erica in 10 minutes. So we jogged down the road with our packs (I wish I could run cross-country!) We made it on time, but they weren't there. Eventually they came driving down the country road into Seneca. We headed back to camp tired, and in my case sore. 

Christine demonstrates what a banana does.

After a slightly restful night we arose to another glorious day of sunshine. Erica made us some amazing breakfast burritos that filled us up for the whole day. We decided to head to Franklin Gorge, about 25 miles from the Seneca. Franklin Gorge is on private land, but the owners have allowed climbing on it. Unfortunately the cliffs have been graffitied, which is to bad, but head uphill for 5 minutes and there are some seriously classic climbs. Erica and I climbed a 5.10+ that was super juggy but had some huge (lunges for me, dyno's for Erica) moves on it. While we climbed this, Christine and Julie we're putting up their own 5.7 around the corner. While they were playing around on that, Erica and I went and climbed a 5.9 called "Aloha".  The route was not a gimme, it started in a very intriguing stemming corner, where the holds weren't all there.

Julie on "Aloha".

Erica leading "Aloha"

After Julie cleaned the route, Erica told us of this long 5.9+ a little ways up the cliff called, "Blood, Sweat, and Chalk". The climb was on amazing jugs with a crux section on positive crimps. Very cool climb.

 Julie leading BSC!

Me on BSC!

After climbing this a few times, we decided to boulder in the hueco covered caves nearby. There have definitely been others to have done this, and the boulder problems are really fun. I wouldn't make a trip out of it, but of you're there, might as well go for it!!

Erica campusing!

Boulder Cave!

After a successful day on the rocks, we headed back to Seneca to celebrate Tess' birthday, and watch "Almost Alpine" with some of the guys that helped put it together. The next day we woke up once again to rain, and decided to head home early, stopping by REI on the way back in. I think this was the first trip where is was home before 10pm!

Toad at Franklin Gorge

Getting Pumpy in Kentuncky? Day 3

Again the day started clouds and wet. The southern heat has spoiled me to the cold. Anything under 60º and I get goosebumps. In Oregon, if it gets over 60º you break out the bro-tanks. Yadayada eating Miguels, food, nutella, water. We decided that today we would go RRG North. Ryan and Stephens recommended Military Wall, as far as I was concerned, I was just along for the ride. The drive was scenic and we got to drive through a long one lane tunnel. Very sketch with lots of traffic. Basically to make it through, you have to screw someone over. We parked and hiked up to the crag. The first climb was a non-descript 5.9 called Sunshine. Not a lot I can say about it other than that it was a 5.9. After our warm-up,  we went straight to Tissue Tiger 5.12b. Beautiful rock, and stellar moves. It looks like a classic jug haul, but it's not. The holds are good, but just slightly sloping on overganging terrain.

Stephens on Tissue Tiger 5.12b

Stephens at the top of Tissue Tiger 5.12b

After Tissue Tiger, we were told about a jug haul 5.12b around the corner called Forearm Follies. We investigated and were intrigued. I put up the draws on this one. The start boulder problem was hard only because everything was chalked, but not everything was good. So many pockets I had to choose which ones to hit. After the boulder problem at the base, it's just jug after jug. There's even a whole handle up there. I got to the first anchor (5.11d) and called it good. The 5.12b part had bees all over it. But the true reason I didn't go was because I was pumped beyond all belief. The best part is coming down because the climb is tall and overhung. 

My feet at the top of Forearm Follies 5.12b (1st anchor 5.11d)

Flowers at the top of Forearm Follies.

After this I was burnt, but Stephens wanted to get on one more 5.12a called Niccorette. He was the only one to climb it. So...it's an arete, it looked harder than .12a, and it's a rock climb.

Stephens at the very start of Niccorette 5.12a

After this climb we left, waited in line at the tunnel forever, and got out of Kentucky. We decided to spend Monday at the New River Gorge, which was a nice suprise for me.

Iron in the Rock

My favorite time of the day, leaving Kentucky with jugs on my mind, and ginger-ale in my tummy!

Sunset in my Mirror!

Getting Lucky In Kentucky Day 2

              Day two started the same as the first, overcast and a little moist. Everyday was like this, and I was really hoping that it wasn't going to rain, despite the Red's overhanging routes. We slid into Miguels, ate breakfast and we're on our way. Today we decided to hit PMRP because Stephens wanted to get on MILF Money 5.13b. At about 8:45 we were on the road, heading south of Miguel's. We made a switchback onto a beautiful gravel road that overlooked the farms.

Farmland in Kentucky above PMRP

About to head down the hill to PMRP

         We started down the gravel road, and it stared to get very steep. Unfortunately this was everyone's first time coming to PMRP, so we had no idea that this can be a very rough hill. I was a bit worried about the minivan making it back out. Eventually we came to the bottom of the hill and found the parking lot at the end. We got ourselves packed up, and headed straight to the Drive-By Crag. The first climb we jumped on was called Make a Wish 5.10a, which was one of the best routes we got on, during the whole trip. It started with a boulder problem (V2+) to a nice jug. The next two bolts went up edges and side-pulls, and onto a no-hand's rest. After that it goes up pleasant pocket's, and had a great sequence. 

Make A Wish 5.10a

Drive-By crag fauna!

Stephens being an attentive belayer.

          After we warmed up we hiked along the base of the cliff, coming to a huge amphitheatre of rock which held the Sharma Project. We thought this area was so beautiful, that we decided we hade to do a climb there. Unfortunately the easiest thing is a 5.13a. So we jumped on it because it had perma-draws on it. The climb is called Easy Rider, and it's a very, very long route.  This climb is my next red-point goal, because it's such an impressive line. 

Me on Easy Rider

Stephens gettin' it on Easy Rider 5.13a

Stephens Falling on Easy Rider 5.13a

After we had a fun time on Easy Rider, we hiked past Thug Life (.13d), and the Sharma project. The guidebook says it right, "where does he intend to start the climb". Not only is the first bolt 90ft of the deck, but getting off the deck requires one of three things. Either an A0 bolt ladder, suction cups, or wizardry/ jedi tricks. So Harry Potter go for it, maybe work it with Anakin. Shrama's got nothing on that team up. After passing the massive Amphitheatre we hiked around to the Bob Marley Crag. Stephens saw M.I.L.F. Money in the guide book, the photo showed a guy dyno-ing to a jug with a big smile on his face. This photo lies. So does the description. And the grade. FA was Sean McColl at the Petzl RocTrip in 2007. Only problem when you have such a strong climber climb this route, it get's graded 5.13a/b. It felt VERY hard, shallow pockets at the beginning. The rest I can't tell because that's as far as we got! But the "5.9" choss after the start looks at least 5.12c. When we did eventually get back to civilization we found that the route has only been sent by a small handfull of climbers. Consensus on the grade is 5.13c/d. 

MILF Money 5.Hard+

Stephens on MILF Money

Wildflowers basking in the Money from Milf's

After our failed attempt we headed around the corner to see awesome jug hauls that roam wild in the Red River Gorge. We decided to rest and eat lunch before heading over. Unfortunately while we were eating, the quick-draw wrasslers managed to occupy all of the climbs except for one 5.12a. Everything else had somebody on it, even Southern Smoke Direct 5.14d. If somebody weren't on it, I know I would have flashed that. We headed to the very end of the crag, dodging dogs, babies, and stick-clips.

The climb looked amazingly juggy (and it was), but for some reason an oil digger decided, back in the day, to drill straight through the cliff. We couldn't understand why, but hey what can you do. The climb was insanely steep, on great holds. At the top of the over-hang you can get a half rest on a heel-hook (or a full rest if you take). The crux is getting to the chains, which is scary because the climb isn't very high up! 

Stephens on Eyeball Chaw 5.12a (notice the oil pipe directly beneath him).

Another Shot of Eyeball Chaw and the Oil Pipe

Stephens Swimming in Jugs on Eyeball Chaw 5.12a

We stayed here a while, pondering where to go next, whether we should wait for a the Top-Rope heroes to get their kids past the 5.7 part of a 5.12, or to go to Chica Bonita. Well the kid was struggling to move from that one huge hold to another, so we went to Chica Bonita. My brilliance got us into the first 5.11a at Chico Bonita. We joked about the guy in the guidebook photo looking like he was trying really hard. Soon I was eating my words as I couldn't even pull the start move. Eventually I made the slopey moves into a painful underling. The next moves were easier but still rough. Soon I was on bad crimps, clipping into a loose bolt. I made it to the top, but it wasn't fun. 

The Dude Abides 5.11a (Real life grade 5.11c)

Stephens cleaning because I was done with bad climbs, what a bro.

We decided we were done climbing on anything over 5.11, so we looked in the guidebook for pleasant looking 5.10. There were pleanty, but we had to find one without people on it. We found one and started the hike to the climb. After hiking for a bit longer than expected, we cam to an amphitheatre. We knew exactly where we were, and the climb should have been within a few hundred metres from where we were. In this time there was another party looking for the same exact climb. The race was on. After 30 minutes of looking around the other group gave up. As they walked away, heads hung, Ryan was using what little signal he had, to scour the interweb. He found that we had to go back down another oil road to find a tiny off shoot up to the crag. It sounded like a pain, but we were already commited. We again tried to find it on the road, with no luck. So Ryan got back on the phone and got more beta (tape at the trailhead). We found it and began a miserable mud scramble up to the crag. Stephens lead it, Ryan got warm on it, and I cleaned it. At the crag we agreed that it was a pretty horrible climb. So much lichen that you couldn't stick feet. To add on the crappy approach, and unknown location, every single hold was razor blade sharp. I feel like I'm complaining a lot, but we put a lot of effort to get to it, and it wasn't as good as it sounded in the guidebook. The climb is caled Good Gravy 5.10b. To get there, walk down the cliff, when you think you've gone to far...keep going. (Later at Miguels Stephens said he enjoyed the climb...he lies.) 

Salamander on the way to Good Gravy.

If you're looking for Good Gravy and see this sight, keep going!

Stephens on Good Gravy 5.10b

After this climb we called it a day, hiked down to the van and clawed our way up the hill!

Saturday Night at Miguels.